Weight Watchers

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2011, 2009 & 2008

As a gym bunny myself, I tend to identify more and more with the Calvin Klein man. Square and hunky. While I'll most probably stay on the slender side, I'd like to watch you becoming him.
/HORST

Disk Warriors

1. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2000 & Spring/Summer 2010
2. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2010 & Unknown
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 1998 & Spring/Summer 2006

Jil Sander and the shape. The circle and the irregular square. It has happened before and it will happen again. Just as the shape itself, it's a recurrent element that I dare to foresee in the upcoming collections.
/HORST

Comme Comment

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2008

Some might have noticed that Horst is currently having a little Comme moment. Comme ci, comme ça. Come on. Comment ça va? In fact, Rei Kawakubo is the dadaist of contemporary fashion.
/HORST

Male Ideal

Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2001 & 2002

Erase and rewind. 10 years back to the slender and skinny. A radical image of masculinity, slowly being forgotten and replaced by the hunk. Let's be this again. Wearing sleeveless shirts, dipped in metaphoric glitter.
/HORST

Image credits Hedi Slimane

An Open Letter To Frida Giannini

Gucci Spring/Summer 2003 - Spring/Summer 2005

The essence of the house of Gucci becomes manifest in one recurrent garment. The silk kimono. With Tom Ford leaving Gucci in 2004, also the men's robe disappeared. Herewith I kindly request a revival.
/HORST

Anacrusis

1. Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2011
2. Tom Ford Unknown collection

Same same but different. As the men's robe seems to be a Tom Ford signature, I've decided to investigate further on this (mostly bare chested) subject. Results will supposedly be shared here.
/HORST

Conversion Rate

Preen Spring/Summer 2004

Nudity. In a figurative sense. And maybe the best Preen collection ever. Admittedly quite Helmut-esque. As it becomes manifest in the use of bandages, straps and suspenders.
/HORST

Rear View

1. Gucci campaign Fall/Winter 2001
2. Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2002

A little Gucci x Jean Paul Gaultier moment on a friday night can never do wrong. Back cleavage is regrettably underrated. And has mostly been considered a fashion faux-pas. Which is a faux-pas itself.
/HORST

Obituary

Clothes Christopher Nemeth

Through the fulminant pages of POP, I stumbled upon the work of Christopher Nemeth. Situated somewhere between folklore and workwear, each piece is one of a kind. Ignoring the self-restraining principle of bi-annual collections and pursuing a patchwork philosophy instead.
/HORST

Image credits POP & Tokyo Fashion

Respective

1. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2007 & Fall/Winter 2007
2. Prada Spring/Summer 2003 & Jean-Francois Campos for Numéro Tokyo, May 2009
3. Yuima Nakazato Spring/Summer 2011 & Prada Fall/Winter 2008

I've always enjoyed the indefinable character of metallic textures. And I'm loving my copper Raf Simons x Doc Martens boots. Changing their colour in sync with the surrounding light. Disco.
/HORST

Now & Then II

Valentino Fall/Winter 2011

Who knew the house of Valentino still does nice menswear? Pearl necklaces and cow hide jackets replaced by fur lined cardigans and utterly adorable leather brogues. Let them have it!
/HORST

Sympathisant

Wendy & Jim Spring/Summer 2001 - Fall/Winter 2007

What do I like about Wendy & Jim? The notion that its wearer has just escaped a mental hospital. Or is still drunk from the night before. It translates confusion. Can somebody now please help me with that strait jacket?!
/HORST

Image credits cfa

Season's Greetings

Photos Bruce Weber

Only 24 days left. The world is covered in whiteness. And minus degrees make me wear an all-in-one at night. Time for a flashback and the Abercrombie & Fitch Christmas catalogue from 1999.
/HORST

Sans Substitute

Fendi Fall/Winter 2007 & Spring/Summer 2007

There has been one year in the history of Fendi that demands closer inspection. 2007 offered impeccable cut and attention to material. As a result I am truly melancholic regarding the fact that the menswear line as such doesn't exist anymore. Maybe I have to comfort myself with a logo bag.
/HORST