Anti Körper II

Artworks Carsten Nicolai

Good art does something to you. It becomes part of an inner conceptual archive. Ideally, its theoretical thesis is subtly adapted and applied to one's own physical surroundings. The result can be seen below.
/HORST

The Horst Interview: Bless

Bless N°00 Fur Wig (1996)

Bless nourish their strength and relevance in the contemporary context on the intangible. As thoroughly inherent in every piece, concept or wearable art installation. An interview about apples, gimmicky-ism and the near future.



Bless N°10 Scarfs Unlimited (1999)

As a little warm-up: What is your most beloved collection piece so far?

Always the newest but of course also eternally the fur wig.

It’s stated that you are aiming for simplicity and comfort in your designs – which then appear to be complicated and über-conceptual. Could the subtle anti-usability be seen as a mind test for the wearer?

Our clothes might be unusual to look at and indeed difficult to hang but very simple to wear. It’s true, some of the clothes require a certain openness and willingness to think different but once getting used to them they are not complicated pieces at all. In the end, we are more interested in how things look after wearing and washing them for a while, or to reflect what kind of look would be perfect for a concept, either as camouflage or as second view eye-catcher.

As individuals you appear quite classic and decent, dressed in neutral, non-gimmicky garments. Is the vibrant and surreal appeal of your designs an ironic projection onto ‘others’?

We wear mainly our clothes. So we take it as a compliment that you speak of non-gimmicky garments which proves that once you wear it a bless product doesn’t seem complicated anymore.



Bless x Weekday Spring/Summer 2011

Your latest collection for Weekday was inspired by the perfect weekend trip. What does it fundamentally consist of?

Good weather, food and more than one person.

Maybe a picnic? Which makes me wonder: what fruit would describe you best?

An apple – sweet and sour. Sometimes with red cheeks, sometimes green.

If you had to compare the collection with a painting, which would it be?

Luckily your question is hypothetical and we don’t have to.

You like horses, don’t you?

Not as much as our sons.

Any aversions, any fetishes?

Pink clothes for girls, our 4-zipper purses.

How does your home look like?

A wooden floor, lots of light and a very comfortable big bed.




Bless N°29 (1999)

What would one see on your kitchen table if we went straight to your place right now?

We both don’t have a specific kitchen table but eat on big tables that are in our living rooms. Those tables are so spacious that they partly contain work units. So you might find a mini office on one side of the table, a bottle of water, eventually some fruits and food, depending on what time of the day you pass by. And a candle.

What would be lying on the bedroom floor?

Books, a water bottle, a lamp.

Who’d be hiding in the closet?

Everything you shouldn’t see as a non-family member.

A controversial question: do you like clowns? There are only two groups of people: people who love clowns. And people who hate clowns…

They are a more tragic than funny in general. We don’t hate them. We are just not attracted by them either.

What kind of figure would be closest to the Bless context?

Morihei Ueshiba.


Bless Spring/Summer 2010

What random fact would you like to share with me, right now?

Vacation are aproaching...

Your favourite joke?

The one with the cow called bless. But we forgot how it went.

Surrealism is…

What we would never dare to guess.

Pop is…

What we liked when we were 13.

Bless is…

A visual substitute to make the near future worth living for.



Bless N°26 Cable Jewelry (2005)

Final question: Is your cable jewelry still available?

Yes.

And are you, too?

Depends in what sense.

Vielen Dank.
/HORST

Mutant Engineering

1. Mark Borthwick for Purple Magazine vs. Lars Englund
2. Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 1997 vs. Cocky Eek Folkert
3. Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2010 vs. Cocky Eek Folkert

We know life will be transformed. And things change rapidly. Futurism's most drastic misconception is its projection upon another time, another dimension. Unfortunately, it's already 2011.
/HORST

Wahre Liebe

Hernández Cornet Fall/Winter 2011 vs. Martin Creed

Loving the cut-through silver belts. Loving the mint green plastic dress. If I were a woman, I'd take one in every colour. And I would so wear a silver spoon bracelet with it. L'objet trouvé.
/HORST

Image credits MBFW Stockholm

Sympathisant

Wendy & Jim Spring/Summer 2001 - Fall/Winter 2007

What do I like about Wendy & Jim? The notion that its wearer has just escaped a mental hospital. Or is still drunk from the night before. It translates confusion. Can somebody now please help me with that strait jacket?!
/HORST

Image credits cfa

Wet Dreams

Ann-Sofie Back Atelje Spring/Summer 2011

Praise this woman. There is a masochistic sensuality to the pieces. Pierced throats. Wet look dresses. Trompe l'œil fantasies in 3D. If I had to name a head designer for my surreal womanswear line, it'll be her.
/HORST

Ability

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2011

The 'flat collection' might have been criticised for its lack of wearability. But I felt relieved. Finally consequence in an idea's execution. And actually so much things to wear and want.
/HORST