Nuclear Whiteness

Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2012

Once ahead our time... when we live in underground bunkers, artificial brutalist spaces made of concrete, furnished with leather and Persian carpets. Sleeveless will become the uniform. Tribal tattoos will indicate the social rank.
/HORST

The Farhi Simons Scandal

Nicole Farhi Spring/Summer 2012 vs. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2011 & 2008

As the previous Farhi scandals have been quite easy to grasp, this one takes on complexity and merges various Raf Simons collections. Mere copy or honest tribute? Who will be throwing the first stone?
/HORST

See also The Farhi Sander Scandal and The Burberry Prada Scandal

Slit

Laitinen Spring/Summer 2012

Slitted eyes. Slitted wrists. Slitted knit. The side of a man's torso revealed. Bare shoulders, uncovered skin. Soft lines accentuating the principles of human construction.
/HORST

Tropical Heat

1. Martin Honert Fata Morgana & Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012
2. Henri Rousseau Éclaireurs attaqués par un tigre & Givenchy Spring/Summer 2012
3. Andreas Gursky Beach & Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2012
4. Jeremy Parnell Big Chook & Prada Spring/Summer 2012

It's about beaches and jungles, flowers and sand castles. Childhood memories, vacation traumata and global warming are melting and diffusing into each other. Just like a bar of rainbow coloured ice cream. In 2012, men wear Hawaii shirts, bermuda shorts and (hopefully) banana skirts.
/HORST

Subjective Sentence

Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2012

To cut things short: This was my favourite collection. It summarized beautifully what I would love and love to wear. Elastic strapped waistcoat constructions. Sensual fashion priests.
/HORST

The Non-Experiment

Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2012

A directional presentation of menswear. What it is and what it could be. Floor-length linen dresses and graphic indications of the stripe, brought into an acceptable form. A valuable contribution.
/HORST

Raf Sander

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

I'm feeling it. Like totally. I mean. 2012 is going to be a Raf Sander year. It is about the shape as predicted. The square thing around a boys neck. Coloured python and plastic raincoats. Bananas.
/HORST